Granada Province has a wealth of rock climbing. The major climbing areas of Loja, Diezma, Monachil (Los Cahoros) and Motril are all written up in Spanish guidebooks available from Desnivel. For the other climbing venues, information is difficult to come by. This web based guide is an attempt to help you locate the crags using our local knowledge.
Traditionally british climbers have tended to go to Alicante, El Chorro or Tarifa for their Spanish winter experience. This guide is intended to open the options and include the Granada area. Although only an hour and a half by road from Malaga airport, the new low cost services to Granada from Liverpool, Stanstead and Gatwick (Monarch and Ryan Air) make this a weekend possibility.
Accommodation
The ideal base for touring these crags is Lanjarón, a
typical Spanish Spa resort town. Hotels there can be from
Expensive to ridiculously cheap (30 euro’s per night full
board including packed lunch and water + wine with the
evening meal!). We recommend the hotel Lanjarón.
Climbing Areas:
Lanjarón (Granada)
Situated on the edge of this traditional Spanish Spa
Resort, Lanjarón is an idea base for all of the crags in
the Granada area. A limestone crag that is mainly east
facing and gets the morning sunshine. There are 21 recorded
climbs on the crag described mainly from grade 4 to 6a.
Orgiva (Granada)
46 recorded climbs on 11 buttresses in a gorge. Sunshine
and shade can always be found.
Routes of all grades up to 7c. Limestone.
Capileira
(Granada)
A fine volcanic outcrop 1500m above sea level. Slightly
cooler in summer when it is hot at lower altitudes. West
facing and in the shade until 11am. 5 minutes walk from the
village with shady square, water fountains and bars.
26 climbs mainly from grades 3 to 6a.
Niguelas (Granada)
4 climbing areas in a limestone gorge. Climbing styles from
smooth slabs to steep walls. Sun or shade always available.
44 recorded climbs, grades 3 to 6c.
Pinos del
Vale (Granada)
A fine limestone crag with a range of problems and plenty
of scope for development. 17 routes. 11 easy / middle grade
routes. 6 routes between 6b and 7a+.
Velez de Benaudalla (Granada)
A compact venue of 2 limestone buttresses. 20 climbs from
6a to 7b+
A good spot for a picnic and some bouldering.
Izbor (Granada)
There is a huge boulder field at Izbor. Most of the rocks
are shattered limestone, and the steeper lines have some
unreliable holds (at present). However there are countless
steep slabs and walls of all standards. Will become more
solid with traffic as this is a totally undeveloped area.
Nice terrace bar in the village. Destined to become a top
bouldering venue!
Lagos (Granada)
2 east facing steep / overhanging buttresses.
It looses the sun from midday onwards but is cooler in
summer at 600m above sea level.
25 climbs from 6c to 8a.
Dilar (Granada)
20 climbs, mostly single pitch. Includes Spain's first 8a+
“Otavia.” Routes from 5 to 8a.
Major Climbing areas:
Monachil, Diezma and Motril are in the guide:
“3 Zonas” Guia
de escalada Granadina. This is available from
Desnivel or local climbing shops in Granada:
Solo
Aventura, Plaza de la Romanilla, Granada (200m south
west of the cathedral)
Sherpa Sports, Cl. Paz, Granada, 200m south of Solo
Aventura.
Loja has its own guide. Available from Desnivel or shops in
Granada.
Alfacar, North East of Granada has a number of crags, with
climbing of all grades. Solo Aventura sells a topo.
On our web pages we will only include location details of
these major areas.